Today, we’re highlighting the innovative perfumer Marie Salamagne, a creator known for her emotionally evocative and transportive fragrances.
From Medical School to Perfumery
Born in Paris in 1977, Marie Salamagne had a keen sense of smell and a natural affinity for perfumes. As a child, Marie was passionate about dance and embraced both classical and modern jazz styles. Yet, before dedicating herself to perfumery, she attended medical school.
Despite her initial path in medicine, Marie pursued her calling in perfumery, viewing it as an art form requiring a delicate balance of intuition, creativity, and technical skill. She is a graduate of ISIPCA perfumery school and trained at Charabot.
Creating Best-Sellers
Salamagne has collaborated with some of the world’s most prestigious brands, creating fragrances that have garnered international acclaim. Her impressive portfolio includes popular creations such as:
1. Black Opium by Yves Saint Laurent
Top notes: Pear, Pink Pepper, and Orange Blossom
Middle notes: Coffee, Jasmine, Bitter Almond, and Licorice
Base notes: Vanilla, Patchouli, Cashmere Wood, and Cedar
Top notes: Rhubarb Leaf and Bergamot
Middle notes: Green Notes, Orange Blossom, Ylang-Ylang, and Pear
Base notes: Bourbon Vanilla, Woody Notes, Amberwood, Sandalwood, Coumarin, and Wolfwood
3. By the Fireplace by Maison Martin Margiela
Top notes: Cloves, Pink Pepper, and Orange Blossom
Middle notes: Chestnut, Guaiac Wood, and Juniper
Base notes: Vanilla, Peru Balsam, and Cashmeran
With 223 perfumes currently listed in databases, her prolific career showcases a diverse range of styles. Other notable fragrances include Jo Malone Dark Amber & Ginger Lily, Novae Vanilla, and numerous Zara creations. She has also collaborated with brands such as Atelier des Ors, Giorgio Armani, Gucci, Hugo Boss, Issey Miyake, Jimmy Choo, and Versace.
In February 2023, Marie Salamagne was recognized as one of the perfumers behind Paco Rabanne FAME.
A Spontaneous and Experimental Approach
Marie’s approach to fragrances is spontaneous and experimental. She embraces risk-taking and trusts her instincts, even when venturing outside her comfort zone. Salamagne describes herself as impatient, sensitive, and possessing an edgy personality, qualities that perhaps contribute to the unique and lavish character of her fragrances.
The Creative Ritual
Marie is very organized and has a creative ritual. She shuts the door, gathers her notebooks, and absorbs herself in thought. Each notebook serves a specific purpose: one relates scents to materials, another studies natural notes, another explores background notes, and the last sketches her general vision.
Marie’s main influences come from her daily life, such as the smell of her fireplace, attic, and the putty around windows. She associates smells with colors and prefers materials with a distinct character.
Present and Future
Marie has been working at Firmenich since 2001, where she holds the position of Principal Perfumer at DSM-Firmenich.
For Marie, fragrances are a tool for unlocking memories and emotions. She believes that a well-crafted perfume can transport individuals to different times and places, prompting powerful and uncontrollable feelings.
Stay tuned for next week’s perfumer, as we’ll feature another remarkable talent.
Find Marie Salamagne’s fragrance creations and more at V Perfumes, your go-to perfume shop in Dubai. Shop at the best prices in the UAE and Gulf region and don’t miss out on exclusive offers online and in-store.
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