It’s strange to me that in the year 2025, many perfumers and other individuals in the fragrance industry still use the term “oriental” to describe a perfume. This term is typically used to describe a fragrance family of warm, spicy, and exotic notes. Fragrances filled with notes of vanilla, amber, oud, cinnamon, myrrh, sandalwood, etc. I would also like to note that I only became aware of the use of the term in fragrances and the issue with it after I started working in the industry and did some research. This topic has since become openly discussed online in many aspects; therefore, I see no reason why anyone would use it anymore, unless they genuinely didn’t know or didn’t make the connection. However, I can’t see how someone who works in the industry wouldn’t know.
Exotic: The term “exotic” describes something strikingly strange, unusual, or different, often because it is from a distant, foreign, or tropical country.
The definition of ‘exotic’ above is what is intended when describing fragrances as ‘oriental’. However, it is foreign and different to whom? Because, as an Arab, cinnamon, amber, and oud are definitely not foreign to me. The term “oriental” is outdated and problematic for many reasons. Let’s take a look at a quick history of the term and discuss why it is outdated.
A History
The term “oriental” emerged in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, fueled by Western fascination with the Orient, a Eurocentric term referring to Asia and the Middle East. Lumping everything west of Europe together as one entity. This fascination was often romanticized/fetishized and steeped in colonial attitudes, portraying these regions as mysterious, luxurious, and “exotic”. The term “orientalism” in its critical sense was popularized by Edward Said, a Palestinian academic, in his 1978 book, Orientalism.
Perfumes labeled oriental would use ingredients considered rare and precious in Europe. It didn’t matter if these ingredients originated from Lebanon, India, China, or Egypt.
Guerlain’s Shalimar, launched in 1925, is considered the first oriental fragrance, a blend of vanilla, amber, citrus, and jasmine, inspired by a romanticized vision of India. Other scents, such as Coco by Chanel and YSL’s Black Opium, are labelled as oriental on Fragrantica. Each of these fragrances is completely different from the other. It is worth noting, though, that while both fragrances originally launched as “orientals,” Chanel has since modified the description, replacing “oriental” with “ambery,” and YSL has removed the term completely.
Why “Oriental” is Outdated
The term is recognized as having several problematic connotations. Primarily, the term is rooted in a colonial perspective that views the East as “other,” exotic, and mysterious in a reductive manner. It reinforces stereotypes and fails to acknowledge the vast diversity of cultures and traditions within Southwest Asia, South Asia, East Asia, and North Africa.
The term lacks a true, definitive meaning and doesn’t accurately describe how a fragrance smells. Unlike other fragrance families with distinct characteristics, “oriental” lacks clear boundaries, grouping together scents with diverse profiles, as exemplified by the fragrances we’ve previously mentioned.
As Yosh Han, perfumer and founder of Scent Festival, puts it, the term is an example of “othering” that lumps together over 50 countries and contributes to a Eurocentric view.
Time to Update Your Scent Vocabulary
The good news is that the fragrance industry is evolving, and there are now better ways to describe these scents. Here are some alternatives to “oriental”:
Amber/Ambery: This term highlights the warm, resinous, and sweet facets of the fragrance category. Michael Edwards, a fragrance historian, proposed replacing “oriental” with “ambery” on his fragrance wheel.
Resinous: This term emphasizes the use of resins, such as frankincense, myrrh, and benzoin, key ingredients in many fragrances formerly classified as “oriental.”
Spicy: This focuses on the warmth and heat of spices often found in these scents.
Warm: This describes the comforting richness associated with notes like amber, spices, and woods.
Gourmand: If the fragrance has edible, dessert-like qualities, such as vanilla, caramel, or chocolate, “gourmand” is a great descriptor.
Balsamic: This refers to a rich, warm, and slightly sweet scent reminiscent of resins, balsams, vanilla, or tonka bean.
It’s worth noting that the main fragrance families include floral, woody, fresh, and amber (formerly known as oriental). These families are further divided into subfamilies.
The Future
The shift away from “oriental” signifies a broader movement toward inclusivity and cultural sensitivity in the fragrance industry. By embracing new terminology and celebrating the diverse origins and stories behind fragrance ingredients, we can create a more respectful and enriching experience for everyone.
