Wavy and curly hair needs special care and products to maintain. I learned this after years of struggling with it. For most of my life, I didn’t even realize I had wavy hair, so I just used straight-haired people’s products, not realizing the damage I was doing to it.
After CGM (curly girl method) became popular around 2020, it got me curious to try those sulfate-free shampoos and a thousand-step hair care routines. Hey, it was the pandemic, and I was bored. Don’t judge me.
The first time I tried a full curly girl routine, I witnessed my hair do a 180 on me, which pleasantly surprised me. There was a shape to each strand of my hair that I never would have known about, and I became curious to discover how far I could take my hair the more I experimented with it. Thus began my journey of discovering hair types.
Fast-forward to today. I have built up a hair care routine suitable for my hair. Therefore, I’ll help you discover the best ingredients for your hair, what it needs to maintain its pattern, and how to build a sustainable routine for it.
Hair Porosity
In order for you to build a hair routine that will preserve your waves or curls and maintain shiny and healthy hair, you must know your hair’s porosity. This will help you determine whether your hair needs protein or hydration (I will explain later). Keep in mind that hair porosity can change over time, so you might need to change the products you use based on which ingredients would suit your hair porosity.
Your hair porosity could be low or high, with cuticles close together or with space between them. Low-porosity hair doesn’t absorb heavy products and moisture well and will need lighter products. On the other hand, hair with higher porosity can absorb heavy moisturizing creams and oils.
How To Determine Your Hair Porosity
The method for discovering your hair porosity is quite simple. You only need a cup of water and a strand of your hair. Simply take a clean, product-free strand of loose hair and put it in a glass of water. If the hair floats at the top, then it is low porosity. If it sinks slowly or settles in the middle, then it is medium/normal porosity, and if it sinks straight to the bottom, then it is high porosity.
Most curly hair has high porosity. Low porosity hair is more common among wavy-haired people. I, for example, have low porosity hair, and my hair is wavy. My friend has tight curls and high porosity hair. This is not to say that you can’t find high-porosity hair that also happens to be wavy. You can; it’s just not common. The same applies to curly hair with low porosity.
What To Avoid
Now that you know your hair porosity, here is what you need to avoid based on that. These ingredients or haircare methods will do you no good or even damage your hair if you use them.
Low Porosity Hair:
- Proteins
- Butter (like shea or cocoa butter)
- Using too much product
- Heavy oils (like olive and coconut oil)
High Porosity Hair:
- Steam
- Hot Showers
- Lightweight oils and creams (these won’t damage your hair but won’t do it any good either)
All Curly and Wavy Hair:
- Silicones
- Sulfates
- Chemical treatments
- Parabens
- Dry brushing
- Styling with heat
Hair Care Routine
You have made it to the critical part—the routine. As there are different things to avoid for high- and low-porosity hair, there are also specific products and ingredients that your hair will love depending on its porosity.
Low-Porosity Hair: Best Ingredients
Low-porosity hair has tightly packed cuticles that make it hard for moisture to penetrate. If you have low-porosity hair, you need lightweight, hydrating products that won’t build up on the surface. Here’s a breakdown of the best ingredients and products for moisturizing low-porosity hair.
Best Ingredients for Low-Porosity Hair:
- Lightweight Oils: Easily absorbed into the hair without weighing it down.
- Argan oil
- Jojoba oil
- Sweet almond oil
- Humectants: Draw moisture into the hair from the air.
- Glycerin
- Honey
- Aloe vera
- Protein-Free or Low-Protein Products: Avoid heavy proteins that can cause build-up and frizzy, dry, and brittle hair.
- Protein-free conditioners and moisturizers
- Water-Based Leave-In Conditioners: Helps retain moisture without heavy build-up.
- Aloe vera juice-based leave-ins
- Rose water-based products
High-Porosity Hair: Best Ingredients
If you have high-porosity hair, your cuticles are more raised, allowing moisture to escape easily. To prevent dryness and damage, high-porosity hair needs heavier products that help seal moisture and strengthen the cuticle. Here are the best ingredients and products for high-porosity hair.
Best Ingredients for High-Porosity Hair
- Heavier Oils: Great for sealing in moisture.
- Castor oil
- Olive oil
- Avocado oil
- Proteins: Help rebuild and strengthen the hair shaft.
- Hydrolyzed protein
- Keratin
- Silk protein
- Butters: Provide deep hydration and sealing properties.
- Shea butter
- Mango butter
- Deep Conditioners: Infuse moisture while repairing the hair.
- Protein-enriched masks
- Deep conditioning/moisturizing masks
How To Care For Low-Porosity & High-Porosity Hair
Low-Porosity:
Low-porosity hair requires products that are easy to absorb and can easily penetrate the hair cuticles. This is why it is best to opt for lightweight hydrating options. Heat, like steam, can help open the cuticles when applying deep conditioners, making it easier for your hair to absorb the product.
High-Porosity:
Moisture retention is key for high-porosity hair. Heavier creams, oils, and hair butter will help seal moisture and minimize fizz. Protein treatments are recommended for this hair type to strengthen and rebuild your hair.
Additional styling tips for wavy or curly hair:
Regardless of your hair porosity, if you have wavy or curly hair, it is essential to style it properly to maintain your hair pattern. Follow these styling tips for the best results:
- After washing your hair with appropriate products for its porosity, use a curling cream. This will define your hair and reveal its true pattern.
- Use a hair gel or mouse to maintain the pattern of your hair after it has dried. Apply the product to wet hair while your hair is upside down and apply to your hair in a scrunching motion.
- Use a hair oil suitable for your hair’s porosity. Apply it by brushing it through your hair with your fingers, then scrunch it inwards to avoid stiff hair.
- If you can air dry your hair, that would be best. But if you must use a blow dryer, use it on a low heat setting, apply a diffuser, and dry your hair with it facing down (be careful not to hurt your neck). This will give your hair more definition and volume without causing it hair damage.
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