The Pistachio Note & How it Became a Gourmand

Pistachio in perfume isn’t a new concept, despite what some brands might lead you to believe. However, it hasn’t always existed in the uber-sweet form we see today, and I attribute much of that shift to the Dubai chocolate craze.

In reality, pistachio is a complex note with a naturally nutty, earthy, and creamy aroma. Traditionally, it was used in high-end, sophisticated fragrances to add richness and elevation. So, how did it become almost exclusively reimagined as a sugary gourmand note?

The Dubai Chocolate Effect

The Dubai Chocolate trend exploded in late 2023 and early 2024, stemming from a pregnancy craving by Sarah Hamouda, the founder of Fix Dessert Chocolatier. These chocolates feature a creamy, crunchy filling made primarily of toasted kataifi (shredded phyllo pastry), pistachio cream, and tahini. Because the dominant flavours in this chocolate bar are the creamy and sweet chocolate coating and the pistachio filling, the two have become inseparable in the public imagination, especially since the bar went viral online.

Following the chocolate’s success, the fragrance market inevitably followed suit. From Kayali’s Sweet Gelato to Louis Breton’s Pistalush, everyone wanted a piece of this nutty profile. While some fragrances focus on the hyper-sweet, edible side of the nut, others maintain a more refined aroma.

I would like to mention that Kayali wasn’t necessarily inspired by the Dubai chocolate craze, as the Dubai Chocolate bar became viral after Yum Pistachio Gelato came out. That being said, the chocolate bar was already available in the market, thus it’s hard to tell.

In this listicle, I’ve included a few standout examples of pistachio fragrances. Some are extremely sweet, while others are more sophisticated. Check them out and take your pick!

1. Tom Ford Eau De Soleil Blanc

Tom Ford Eau de Soleil Blanc is an example of incorporating pistachio in a fragrance without making it overtly sweet. A fragrance that came out in 2018 has no clue what Dubai Chocolate is to begin with. This fragrance also happens to be a flanker, an illuminating and bright take on the original sultry and addictive solar floral Soleil Blanc fragrance from 2016. Both of these vacation scents have a solar, nutty warmth rather than a sugary dessert profile.

2. Armaf Odyssey Dubai Chocolat Edition EDP

On the other end of the spectrum, we have Odyssey Dubai Chocolat by Armaf, which is directly inspired by the famous chocolate bar. To Armaf’s credit, they added coffee and cardamom accords that aren’t present in the original treat. I suppose this is to mimic the classic combination of Arabic coffee (which traditionally contains cardamom) paired with a sweet dessert. The knafeh note mentioned in the top notes refers to the kataifi (shredded pastry) found in the chocolate bar, as there are no cheese accords present in this fragrance.

3. Lattafa Eclaire Pistache EDP

Lattafa naturally created their own take on the viral chocolate bar; however, instead of an entirely new standalone fragrance, they added a flanker to their already well-liked Eclaire line. The original Eclaire is a highly popular gourmand, and extending the line with other gourmands was the brand’s best bet. But unlike Armaf’s take on this trend, Lattafa excluded the crunchy filling and focused on the creamy aspects of the dessert with pistachio cream, whipped cream, milk, and musk notes.

4. Prada Paradoxe Radical Essence Parfum

Prada Paradoxe Radical Essence is a true radical scent, as the branding leans more unisex than previous releases. I enjoyed seeing this shift in the Paradoxe line, as this version is warmer and lacks the typical vanilla base. The pistachio heart provides a nutty, intimate scent that blends beautifully with creamy, woody sandalwood. While the pistachio is mostly present in the opening, it settles into the background as the fragrance dries down, blending seamlessly with the other notes.

5. Elie Saab Girl Of Now Shine EDP

Elie Saab Girl of Now Shine is another pre-Dubai Chocolate craze pistachio fragrance. While it is a sweet scent, it isn’t nearly as sweet as the chocolate-drenched fragrances inspired by the viral bar. It remains a primarily soft, nutty almond-and-pistachio scent with a patchouli dry down. The sweetness is also balanced by a warm, spicy aroma, making it perfect as a signature scent. However, I would like to add that this fragrance doesn’t wear well in extreme heat, as it can become a bit cloying then.

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