In 1853, Guerlain achieved a significant breakthrough with Eau de Cologne Impériale, crafted for Empress Eugénie, the spouse of Napoleon III. This achievement led to Guerlain being named “Official Perfumer to Her Majesty”. Although Guerlain had been selling fragrances since 1828 from its boutique in Paris, the creation of this renowned cologne and its distinctive bee bottle truly marked the brand’s rise to royal fame.
Guerlain has created over 1100 fragrances since its founding, with five generations of perfumers contributing to its legacy, creating iconic scents like Shalimar and the extensive Aqua Allegoria line. But which of these fragrances are viewed as timeless?
For Her
1. Guerlain Shalimar EDP
| Highlights | Details |
|---|---|
| Brand | Guerlain |
| Best for | Women |
| Fragrance Family | Amber Spicy |
| Notes | Top: Citruses, Bergamot, Lemon, Cedar, and Mandarin Orange Middle: Iris, Patchouli, Vetiver, Jasmine, and Rose Base: Vanilla, Incense, Leather, Opoponax, Civet, Sandalwood, Tonka Bean, and Musk |
| Release year | 1990 |
| Projection | Moderate |
| Perfumer | Jacques Guerlain |
Guerlain’s Shalimar was inspired by the epic love story of Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan and his wife Mumtaz Mahal, symbolising eternal love with its name, meaning “Temple of Love” in Sanskrit, and its scent reflecting the opulence and passion of the East, particularly the famous Shalimar Gardens built for her.
But what makes Shalimar truly iconic is the fact that it was one of the first amber fragrances, sometimes dubbed the first gourmand fragrance, which truly revolutionised the industry. With its bold vanilla overdose that was unfamiliar in 1990, and contrast of fresh bergamot with warm, sensual base notes, Shalimar cemented its status as an iconic, timeless fragrance.
2. Guerlain Samsara EDP
| Highlights | Details |
|---|---|
| Brand | Guerlain |
| Best for | Women |
| Fragrance Family | Floral Woody Musk |
| Notes | Top: Citruses Middle: Ylang-Ylang and Jasmine Base: Sandalwood, Iris, Vanilla, and Tonka Bean |
| Release year | 2021 |
| Projection | Moderate |
| Perfumer | Jacques Guerlain |
Samsara by Guerlain was also inspired by a love store, though a more personal one to its perfumer. The primary inspiration was the woman in Jean-Paul Guerlain‘s life, Decia de Powell, who, paradoxically, never wore perfume because she couldn’t find one she liked. He decided to create a signature scent for her, a declaration of absolute love.
The name “Samsara” comes from Sanskrit and refers to the philosophical concept of the cycle of life, death, and rebirth, which ultimately leads to Nirvana. Jean-Paul Guerlain travelled to India multiple times to source the purest Mysore sandalwood and a specific type of jasmine previously used only for religious offerings in temples to create this perfume.
For Him:
1. Guerlain L’Homme Idéal L’Intense EDP
| Highlights | Details |
|---|---|
| Brand | Guerlain |
| Best for | Men |
| Fragrance Family | Amber Woody |
| Notes | Top: Almond, Chilli Pepper, and Cardamom Middle: Leather, Bulgarian Rose, and Labdanum Base: Smoke, Tonka Bean, Vanilla, Sandalwood, and Patchouli |
| Release year | 2018 |
| Projection | Moderate |
| Perfumer | Thierry Wasser |
L’homme Ideal is an intensely masculine, woody–spicy–ambery scent, emphasising fiery spices, deep almond, rich leather, smoky tonka bean, and warm vanilla, creating a powerful, seductive, and elegantly sophisticated narrative.
This fragrance was created with the ideal man in mind. Thierry Wasser aimed for irresistible masculinity, drawing on the richness of spirits and focusing on concentrated ingredients for a bold, memorable scent.
2. Guerlain L’Instant de Guerlain EDP
| Highlights | Details |
|---|---|
| Brand | Guerlain |
| Best for | Men |
| Fragrance Family | Woody |
| Notes | Top: Star Anise, Bergamot, Elemi, Lemon, and Pepper Middle: Cacao Pod, Sandalwood, Smoke, Tea, and Jasmine Base: Patchouli |
| Release year | 2018 |
| Projection | Moderate |
| Perfumer | Beatrice Piquet |
A hot and cold fragrance contrast that captures a sparkling, woody, and seductive feeling and a sudden stop in time during a passionate meeting. Guerlain’s L’Instant de Guerlain was inspired by the moment time stops, capturing an electric, sensual encounter where two souls meet.
A fresh, ambery aniseed for the top, with gourmand notes ofcacao and patchouli in the heart and base, this fragrance by him reflects intense, fleeting moments of connection and desire.
Unisex:
1. Guerlain Les Absolus d’Orient Encens Mythique EDP
| Highlights | Details |
|---|---|
| Brand | Guerlain |
| Best for | Unisex |
| Fragrance Family | Woody Chypre |
| Notes | Top: Aldehydes, Rose, and Saffron Middle: Pink Pepper, Patchouli, and Vetiver Base: Ambergris, Olibanum, and Woodsy Notes |
| Release year | 2019 |
| Projection | Moderate |
| Perfumer | Thierry Wasser |
Les Absolus d’Orient Encens Mythique is a sophisticated, modern incense fragrance that isn’t overpowering but rather a complex interplay of dry smoke, floral notes, and resinous warmth, resulting in a modern scent with an ancient feel.
The central note of this fragrance is Olibanum (frankincense), which lends the scent a spiritual, smoky, and mineral character. This note is balanced with dewy rose and rich ambergris for softness, creating a blend that’s both powerful and refined.
2. Guerlain Patchouli Ardent EDP
| Highlights | Details |
|---|---|
| Brand | Guerlain |
| Best for | Unisex |
| Fragrance Family | Woody Floral Musk |
| Notes | Top: Rose Middle: Leather Base: Patchouli and Musk |
| Release year | 2024 |
| Projection | Moderate |
| Perfumer | Thierry Wasser |
As a patchouli lover, I can vouch that this is one of the best patchouli fragrances out there. The fragrance, a woody floral musk, aims to reinvent patchouli, traditionally a dark and mysterious note, in a surprisingly vibrant, bright way.
The perfume is part of the “Les Absolus d’Orient” (now Absolus Allegoria) collection, which pays homage to the captivating scents of the East. While a relatively new fragrance, I see it becoming one of the icons.
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