The history of frankincense goes back thousands of years, as it has been traded on the Arabian Peninsula for over 6,000 years. The earliest and best-known source of Frankincense is Oman, which has shipped this fragrant resin to regions such as the Mediterranean, India, and China for thousands of years.
While Somalia is home to the largest frankincense forests, Oman is known for harvesting, protecting, and utilising Boswellia trees, positioning itself as the primary source of this aromatic gum resin. In fact, Wadi Dawkah in Oman is home to over 4,000 frankincense trees. Amouage has been the custodian of Wadi Dawkah since 2022 in partnership with Oman’s Ministry of Heritage and Tourism.
Frankincense, also known as olibanum, is referred to as “al-luban” in Arabic. The resin is burned during ceremonies and social gatherings for its pleasant, calming scent, creating a relaxing atmosphere. It is known for its intoxicating scent, with woody, earthy, and sweet notes and a distinct citrusy, spicy undertone. This has made a very popular note in perfume.
Here are some fragrances that have a distinct luban (frankincense) note. Check them out if you’re curious about this luxurious resin.
1. Amouage Purpose EDP
| Highlights | Details |
|---|---|
| Brand | Amouage |
| Best for | Unisex |
| Fragrance Family | Amber Woody |
| Notes | Top: Olibanum, Black Pepper, Pink Pepper, Pimento, and Bergamot Middle: Vetiver, Papyrus, Sandalwood, and Rose Base: Akigalawood, Saffron, Suede, and Mystikal |
| Release year | 2023 |
| Projection | Moderate |
| Perfumer | Quentin Bisch |
It wouldn’t make sense for us to start off with any brand other than Amouage. As previously mentioned, this Omani brand had taken responsibility for preserving the frankincense trees in its country of origin.
Amouage has many fragrances with a strong frankincense note, but we decided to go for a controversial choice. Purpose might not be everyone’s favourite, but that doesn’t mean it’s not a good fragrance. This niche fragrance is dry, woody, and smoky. If you can appreciate a fragrance with these characteristics, and like frankincense, I couldn’t recommend this scent enough.
2. Gucci Intense Oud EDP
| Highlights | Details |
|---|---|
| Brand | Gucci |
| Best for | Unisex |
| Fragrance Family | Amber |
| Notes | Top: Frankincense, Raspberry, Saffron, and Pear Middle: Damask Rose, Musk, and Orange Blossom Base: Agarwood, Leather, Patchouli, and Ambergris |
| Release year | 2016 |
| Projection | Moderate |
| Perfumer | Aurélien Guichard |
Intense Oud fragrance opens with a strong frankincense and rose combination, balanced by oud, and transitions into a pleasant mix of spices, pear, and raspberry. Despite its Intense Oud title, it maintains surprising freshness while retaining the expected depth and richness, resulting in a versatile, wearable oud fragrance.
While not groundbreaking, its skilful execution results in a wearable oud, fruit, and leather fragrance. It offers impressive performance and is considered a safe buy overall, which isn’t something that can be said for many oud scents.
3. Estee Lauder Desert Eden EDP
| Highlights | Details |
|---|---|
| Brand | Estee Lauder |
| Best for | Unisex |
| Fragrance Family | Amber Floral |
| Notes | Top: Sandalwood Middle: Turkish Rose Base: Olibanum |
| Release year | 2021 |
| Projection | Moderate |
| Perfumer | Anne Flipo |
This is a westernised version of an Arabic fragrance, combining rose with woody, vaguely oudhy, vaguely resinous notes. If you’re just being introduced to oud and need a soft start, this is a good place to start.
The frankincense is the first thing you smell in Desert Eden. The sandalwood is light, and the rose adds a powdery aroma to the scent. It is honestly beautiful. As the fragrance settles and the olibanum becomes less noticeable, the rose becomes more prominent. I am not a fan of rose in fragrances, but I still enjoyed this scent overall.
4. Lancôme La Vie Est Belle L’Extrait De Parfum
| Highlights | Details |
|---|---|
| Brand | Lancôme |
| Best for | Women |
| Fragrance Family | Amber Floral |
| Notes | Top: Frankincense, Red Fruits, and Bergamot Middle: Iris Pallida and Damask Rose Base: Oud |
| Release year | 2023 |
| Projection | Low – Moderate |
| Perfumer | Anne Flipo and Dominique Ropion |
If you’re looking to purchase this thinking it’s anything like original La Vie Est Belle, then don’t. But if you’re looking for a good, strong, oud-forward scent, you’re gonna love this.
Unlike the original, this l’extrait de parfum version of La Vie Est Belle is strong and woody. The frankincense complements the oud and iris notes, which are the most prominent notes in this scent. This is a scent that wears beautifully in the winter as it is very rich and warm.
5. Bvlgari Kobraa EDP
| Highlights | Details |
|---|---|
| Brand | Bvlgari |
| Best for | Men |
| Fragrance Family | Amber Fougere |
| Notes | Top: Geranium Middle: Olibanum Base: Agarwood (Oud) |
| Release year | 2020 |
| Projection | Moderate |
| Perfumer | Jacques Cavallier Belletrud |
If you’re looking for a masculine, frankincense-dominant scent, Kobraa is an excellent choice. This scent by Bvlgari is very resinous, woody, and luxurious.
While this is a versatile fragrance, I wouldn’t recommend it for very warm summers like the ones we get in Dubai. Otherwise, you can wear it anywhere, at anytime, at any time of day.
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