Chypre, pronounced shi-pruh, is the French word for Cyprus. The Greek island, renowned for its gloves scented with oak moss, was once at the helm of the perfume trade because of its strategic location as a crossroads between the East and the West. But what does Chypre mean when it comes to fragrances?
Chypre as a Fragrance Family
The classic chypre fragrance is built on a simple foundation:
- Zesty Bergamot (or another tart citrus)
- Earthy Oakmoss
- Smoky Labdanum (or another resin)
But it’s not that simple. Not all chypre perfumes follow the exact recipe. Some might skip the labdanum but still have that unmistakable chypre vibe with oakmoss as a key note.
What Does Chypre Actually Smell Like?
Chypre, as a fragrance family, is characterised as being similar to a damp, mossy forest after a light shower. Subtle hints of roses often accompany this. Woody notes and green elements are at the base of these fragrances, giving an earthy aroma.
These fragrances also have a tartness about them. They’re a bit sour rather than candy-sweet. This fragrance family is known for its complex, earthy, and versatile nature.
Chypre vs. Fougere
A great way to understand chypre is to compare it to its cousin, the fougere. Fougères are similar but often feature lavender instead of bergamot. Doing a side-by-side comparison is the perfect way to start learning and start recognising each type of fragrance.
For Her:
1. JPG Scandal EDP
| Highlights | Details |
|---|---|
| Brand | Jean Paul Gaultier |
| Best for | Women |
| Fragrance Family | Chypre Floral |
| Notes | Top: Blood Orange and Mandarin Orange Middle: Honey, Gardenia, Orange Blossom, Jasmine, and Peach Base: Beeswax, Caramel, Patchouli, and Liquorice |
| Release year | 2017 |
| Longevity | Over 8 hours |
| Projection | Moderate |
| Perfumer | Daphné Bugey, Fabrice Pellegrin and Christophe Raynaud |
Jean Paul Gaultier’s Scandal is the perfect example of a modern chypre. Sure, it does consist of the basic chypre composition. A citrus opening, a floral heart, and a warm base. So, how does this chypre differ from the classic chypre?
The answer is in the base. While we still get that earthy note of patchouli, which is grounding and warm. It is accompanied by notes we usually see in gourmands, like caramel and liquorice. These notes, along with the honey in the heart, make this fragrance a bit sweeter than the average chypre.
2. Amouage Memoir EDP
| Highlights | Details |
|---|---|
| Brand | Amouage |
| Best for | Women |
| Fragrance Family | Chypre |
| Notes | Top: Wormwood, Cardamom, Pink Pepper, and Mandarin Orange Middle: Incense, Clove, Woodsy Notes, Rose, White Flowers, Pepper, and Jasmine Base: Leather, French labdanum, Castoreum, Styrax, Oak Moss, and Musk |
| Release year | 2010 |
| Longevity | Over 8 hours |
| Projection | Moderate |
| Perfumer | Daniel Maurel and Dorothée Piot |
Memoir by Amouage has a closer composition of what a classic chypre would have. Apart from the added pepper in the opening and heart, I would categorise this fragrance as a true chypre.
Memoir is a luxury fragrance with an amplified base, heart, and top. The spices are there to amplify the already robust notes present throughout this perfume. This women’s perfume is one you must at least try.
For Him:
1. Creed Aventus – EDP
| Highlights | Details |
|---|---|
| Brand | Creed |
| Best for | Men |
| Fragrance Family | Chypre Fruity |
| Notes | Top: Bergamot, Black Currant, Apple, Lemon, and Pink Pepper Middle: Pineapple, Patchouli, and Moroccan Jasmine Base: Birch, Musk, oak moss, Ambroxan, and Cedarwood |
| Release year | 2010 |
| Longevity | Over 8 hours |
| Projection | Moderate |
| Perfumer | Jean-Christophe Hérault and Erwin Creed |
Both of Creed’s Aventus are categorised under the chypre fruity family. Yet the men’s fragrance is more robust, richer, and more intense. Why is that? My theory is that it’s because the men’s version is more chypre and less fruity, while the women’s version is more fruity and less chypre.
Aventus, for him, is a long-lasting men’s fragrance that is suitable for everyday wear. The fruity notes complement the chypre notes here very well. Together, they make a fragrance that is not just rich and robust, but balanced and wearable as well.
2. Chanel Pour Monsieur EDT
| Highlights | Details |
|---|---|
| Brand | Chanel |
| Best for | Men |
| Fragrance Family | Chypre |
| Notes | Top: Sicilian Lemon, Petitgrain, and Neroli Middle: Cardamom, Ginger, Coriander, and Basil Base: Oakmoss, Vetiver, and Cedar |
| Release year | 1955 |
| Longevity | Over 6 hours |
| Projection | Moderate |
| Perfumer | Henri Robert |
Another classic chypre, but for men this time. Chanel Pour Monsieur is an eau de toilette, which means it has a lower concentration of perfume oil. This allows the fragrance to have a higher projection, but it comes at the cost of longevity.
Back to the fragrance itself, Pout Monsieur is a traditionally masculine chypre fragrance. It is, in my opinion, the perfect office fragrance for men due to its masculine composition that is inoffensive and light due to it being an EDT.
Unisex:
1. Holy Oud Fleur Blanc Patchouli EDP
| Highlights | Details |
|---|---|
| Brand | Holy Oud |
| Best for | Unisex |
| Fragrance Family | Chypre |
| Notes | Top notes: Violet Leaf, Coriander, and Bergamot Middle notes: Rose, Black Pepper, and Lily-of-the-Valley Base notes: Patchouli, Ambergris, and Bourbon Vanilla |
| Release year | 2023 |
| Longevity | Over 8 hours |
| Projection | Moderate |
| Perfumer | Holy Oud |
Fleur Blanc Patchouli by Holy Oud is a unisex fragrance categorised in the chypre family. The opening carries that classic bergamot note found in the original chypre, but I wouldn’t say it is 100% traditional.
This fragrance carries spicy notes and does not carry the traditional oakmoss base note. But that is not to say that it lacks the earthy character of chypre fragrances. This Flear Blanc Patchouli projects a green, earthy fragrance that goes hand in hand with chypre perfumes.
2. YSL Tuxedo EDP
| Highlights | Details |
|---|---|
| Brand | Yves Saint Laurent |
| Best for | Unisex |
| Fragrance Family | Chypre |
| Notes | Top: Violet Leaf, Coriander, and Bergamot Middle: Rose, Black Pepper, and Lily-of-the-Valley Base: Patchouli, Ambergris, and Bourbon Vanilla |
| Release year | 2015 |
| Longevity | Over 8 hours |
| Projection | Moderate |
| Perfumer | Juliette Karagueuzoglou |
Last but not least, Tuxedo by Yves Saint Laurent was inspired by the iconic tuxedo jacket, particularly the designer’s adaptation of the smoking jacket for women.
The fragrance aims to capture the nature of the tuxedo, using notes like black pepper, patchouli, and ambergris to create a refined and elegant scent for everyone to wear. YSL went with chypre aroma to mirror a sense of androgyny and rebellion, making it a cultural touchstone for YSL.
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