The role of AI in fragrance creation is evolving, from assisting human perfumers to potentially designing scents independently. Neandertal, an artistic brand, explores this intersection of human and artificial intelligence with its latest fragrance duo: “is™” and “was™”.
One fragrance was created using Symrise’s AI system (fragrance creation tool Philyra), while the other was crafted by a team led by a master perfumer. But you’re not told which is which. It is essential to note that Symrise’s AI system operates in conjunction with actual perfumers; therefore, the fragrance is not created solely by the use of AI, nor does it replace human perfumers.
“By not revealing which fragrance comes from which source, we invite people to encounter them without bias, and to reflect on how the boundary between human and machine creativity is shifting”. – Artist and Neandertal founder, Kentaro Yamada.
More on Philyra
Philyra is an artificial intelligence (AI) tool developed through a collaboration between Symrise and IBM Research, designed to assist perfumers in creating new and sustainable fragrances. It works by analyzing vast datasets of fragrance formulas, raw materials, and consumer data to identify scent combinations and predict consumer trends.
Philyra can also optimize formulas for sustainability by suggesting variations with improved biodegradability and renewability. This AI tool accelerates fragrance development, reducing the time it takes to create new scents from years to days. Several notable fragrances have been created with Philyra’s assistance, including Egeo ON Me and Egeo ON You, Esika Kalos Tech, Tros AI Awakening Cologne, and the AI co-created Scope collection.
It is quite ironic that an AI tool is being used to create sustainable fragrances, given the harmful environmental effects this technology has.
A Dialogue Between Intelligences
Yamada explains the concept: “With is™ and was™, we wanted to create a dialogue between two different forms of intelligence… By not revealing which fragrance comes from which source, we invite people to encounter them without bias, and to reflect on how the boundary between human and machine creativity is shifting”.
Yamada emphasizes that the project aims to spark curiosity about being human in an era increasingly shaped by synthetic creations. He adds, “For me, this project is less about providing answers, and more about sparking curiosity about what it means to be human in an age of synthetic life”.
is™
Despite originating from the same brief, “is™” and “was™” each offer something different. “is™” presents the brighter and more unconventional of the two, aligning with Neandertal’s artistic and unusual style.
It includes the following notes: nutmeg, myrtle, galbanum, bergamot, fig, metallic notes, violet, suede, vetiver, patchouli, and musk.
The fragrance features a sharp metallic element contrasted with a creamy sweet scent, creating a sense of tension. A subtle green undertone adds a bleach-like cleanliness, while herbal notes hint at earthiness. This creates a push and pull between the digital world and the ancestral, earthy realm.
was™
“was™”, in contrast, presents a gentler affair. Its notes include the following: yerba mate, bergamot, cardamom, geranium, clove, Diviniris, vanilla, cedarwood, vetiver, sandalwood, styrax, amber, and musk.
The brand describes “was™” as opening with warm, woody, and spicy notes, settling into an unexpected softness driven by iris, courtesy of the novel molecule Diviniris. The fragrance transitions from a warm, spicy amber to a papery iris, like a cold, blank paper. The iris develops a slightly leathery quality, then into a woody and resinous base.
A Thought-Provoking Experiment
Ultimately, Neandertal’s “is™” and “was™” present a thought-provoking exploration of AI’s role in creativity and its implications for our understanding of what it means to be human. Regardless of one’s stance on AI, Neandertal’s nuanced approach encourages curiosity and invites us to ponder the evolving relationship between humans and machines.
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